Tuesday, April 25, 2023

Memories of the TET Offensive

 



Early one morning in late February 1968, Judy and I woke up to an eerie and unusual quietness on Cong Hoa street outside of the house where we lived in Cholon, the Chinese sector of Saigon.  We had gone to bed before midnight to the sound of fireworks heard all over the neighborhood, the beginning of the lively festival of TET, the Chinese Lunar New Year’s celebration.  In fact, earlier in the evening we took a drive through one of the busiest districts of the city to observe some of the carnival atmosphere. 

The days leading up to TET flowers filled Nguyen Hue Street in downtown Saigon

We all expected that TET would mean that a cease fire would be observed, as soldiers from both sides would take this traditional break from war and spend time with their families. Little did we know that the sound of fireworks had turned into the sound of gunfire while we slept.

In that early morning hour, we did not know that we were already in the epicenter of the biggest offensive of the war, carried out by the North Vietnam Army (NVA), not only in Saigon but throughout the country – now generally felt to be a turning point in the war, the TET Offensive. 

I had scheduled a breakfast meeting with visitors from the States at the Hotel Majestic, so I jumped on my Lambretta motor scooter and headed out, leaving Judy at the house with our five-month-old baby, Bret.  Strange, I thought, there’s little traffic on the streets so my ride down to the Saigon River wouldn’t take long. Soon enough I started running into barricades and road blocks guarded by ARVN (South Vietnamese) troops, and the occasional sound of small arms fire and a loud boom in the distance.   After several diversions I arrived at the hotel where I met Bill Snyder and Atlee Beechy of the Mennonite Central Committee and quickly learned that the American Embassy, only a few blocks away, and many other sites, were now under attack.

I remember the next days as a time of apprehension, rumors and un-knowing.  We lived with the sound of bombing around the city, but little concrete information as to the scope of the battles.  It was several days until we were able to get out to assess the needs and destruction in some of the neighborhoods around the city.  Our first concern was to verify the situation of our many volunteers and staff stationed in the city and around the country.  We heard via cable from the Vietnam Christian Service (VNCS) teams in Nha Trang, Pleiku, Quang Ngai and then the other smaller and remote places where our people were working.  It was almost a week later that we heard from Hue, one of the cities in Central Vietnam that under-went some of the fiercest battles. In fighting that went on in Hue for almost three weeks over two hundred US Marines and probably thousands of Vietnamese from both sides of the conflict were killed as that beautiful city endured major destruction. 

We were relieved to hear that all seven VNCS staff in Hue were safe!   Indeed, we could report to anxious colleagues and families back home that we were all O.K.  When Ove Nielsen at Lutheran World Relief in New York called my mother and said, “This is Ove Nielsen from LWR in New York” she burst into sobs before he could finish saying “we’ve just heard from Saigon that Judy, Jerry and Bret are safe”.  The reality was that folks back in the States were getting more information from newspapers and evening newscasts then we were right in the middle of it.  The American public was alarmed, and rightly so.

The TET offensive is one of those times and places etched in my mind forever, the sounds, smells, sights, feelings; and the destruction we observed.  Above all it was the solidarity and shared emotions we experienced with each other, both international colleagues and Vietnamese.  And it reinforced our commitment to have a small part in ending this madness, or at least alleviating just a bit of the suffering it caused.

For some of us TET was the beginning of the end of our time in Vietnam as Judy and Bret and other mothers and children were evacuated to Malaysia; and a few staff who could not continue with their projects were reassigned to other countries.  But most “VNCSers” persisted and continued to do social work, distribute aid, bind wounds, and show solidarity with the displaced and traumatized – until it all came to an end when the NVA finally marched into Saigon in 1975.